Bangkok

Bangkok tends to evoke strong emotions; it is pretty much a love it or hate it city. Bangkok certainly has its faults, but it also has a charm and vibrancy that can be compelling. The Thai capital can be bewildering for the first time visitor, but a little bit of planning, patience and understanding will help you get the most out of the city.

Bangkok Accommodation

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Many people on a 2 or 3 week vacation in Thailand only spend a few days in Bangkok before heading to the beaches of the south or the sights of the north like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. You can certainly see and do a lot in a short amount of time in Bangkok, but my top tip for a short stay would be to ensure you stay within comfortable walking distance of a Skytrain or metro stop. This will save you a lot of time and hassle and the air-conditioned comfort will be welcome respite from the heat and humidity. It also gives you a lot of freedom for independent exploration of the city without having to rely on organized trips and tours.

As you might expect from the capital city, there is a vast array of hotels and guest-houses to suit every budget. Whilst the Bangkok traffic jams can be horrendous, the Skytrain, metro and river make it relatively easy to get around and see the main sights. If you are only in Bangkok for a short amount of time, you should give consideration to choosing accommodation close to transport links.

Banglamphu Wat Arun, Temple of the Dawn, Bangkok
Banglamphu is a firm and long established favourite with backpackers and budget travellers from all over the world heading for the cheap accommodation of the Khao San Road. Despite its undeniable backpacker image, the area has undergone rejuvenation in recent years. Banglamphu is now popular with young Thais and a number of trendy bars and eateries have appeared in the vicinity. Probably the main advantage of staying here is the proximity to the Chao Phraya River, the Grand Palace and Wat Po.

Chinatown
The colourful area of Chinatown in the old Sampang district of Bangkok is centrally located with relatively easy access to the Chao Phraya River, Ratanakosin (for the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo) and the main train station at Hualamphong. The two main road thoroughfares are Thanon Charoen Krung (New Road) and Thanon Yaowarat. Not surprisingly, there is an abundance of Thai-Chinese traders in the area reflected in the markets, restaurants and gold shops.
Boutique hotels in Chinatown >>

Siam Square
If you stay here in the hope of finding a central square along the lines of Trafalgar Square in London or the Grand Place in Brussels, you will be disappointed. However, this is probably what most residents would consider to be the downtown area and home to many multi-national companies and plenty of glitzy shops and high class hotels. Served by the Skytrain station of Siam Square (or Central as it’s often referred to), the area is convenient for Jim Thompson’s House and Lumpini Park.

Silom
Bordering Siam Square and just south of Chinatown, Silom has the benefit of good access from the Skytrain which in turn makes it easy to get to Saphan Taksin station from where it is just a short walk to catch a ferry to many of Bangkok’s top sightseeing spots or to enjoy a tour of the river.
Boutique hotels in Siam and Silom >>

Sukhumvit
The Sukhumvit area in the east of the city is easily accessible from both of the Bangkok airports. Sukhumvit also enjoys excellent Skytrain links and a metro station for fast and easy access to the main train station at Hualamphong. Accommodation ranges from budget to luxurious with a decent array of mid-range hotels. With plenty of nearby shopping opportunities and proximity to night-life areas this a good base for any stay in Bangkok.
Boutique hotels in Sukhumvit >>

Bangkok Attractions

Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaeo and the Emerald Buddha
Probably the star attraction in Bangkok and on many people’s must-do list when visiting the Thai capital, Wat Phra Kaeo and the Grand Palace are situated within the same complex close to the banks of the Chao Phraya River.

Wat Po
Opposite the Grand Palace complex, Wat Po is home to the magnificent Reclining Buddha. As well as being the oldest temple in Bangkok, Wat Po is the place to go for a traditional Thai massage.

Bangkok Floating Market
There are a number of floating markets in and around Bangkok, but probably the biggest and best known lies just outside the Thai capital in Damnoen Saduak.
Bangkok Floating Market at Damnoen Saduak >>

Jim Thompson’s House
For an oasis of calm amidst the throbbing metropolis, be sure to check out Jim Thompson’s House and catch an insight into a bygone era and a traditional Thai lifestyle.

Bangkok Dinner Cruise
Despite the modernity of Bangkok’s transport system, the Chao Phraya River remains the main artery of the Thai capital. A working river that ferries commuters, freight traffic and tourists, the Chao Phraya also hosts a number of evening dinner cruises with prices to suit every budget.

Cabbages and Condoms Restaurant
Cabbages & Condoms is a lovely restaurant and the profits go towards a very worthwhile cause. It’s also the only time you’re likely to be handed packets of condoms in place of the traditional after-dinner mints!
Review of Cabbages and Condoms Restaurant, Bangkok >>

Bangkok Transport

Boat
If you’re feeling adventurous, the city has a network of canals with regular water taxis. Be warned though; these are not for the faint-hearted. The boats are often still moving as you embark and disembark. You won’t see many tourists here, but it’s very authentic and a great way to get around.

The Chao Phraya River boats on the other hand are much easier to deal with and are well used to coping with tourists. Ask your hotel or guest house for a map which includes the locations of the piers along the river. Saphan Taksin skytrain station is a handy location, just a short walk to the pier. Tickets for tourist sightseeing boats can be bought from here or you can just hop on one of the regular services.

Metro
The metro system has also improved the transport options in Bangkok, providing a long awaited link from Hualamphong train station to the Skytrain network. The metro is clean, easy to use and the air-conditioned environs provide a respite from the Bangkok heat.
Bangkok metro website >>

Skytrain
The excellent Skytrain is a great way to get around Bangkok although it is limited in range and does not connect directly to some of the main sightseeing areas. However, it easy to get a Skytrain (use the Saphan Taksin station) to the Chao Phraya River and catch a boat to take you upstream to Wat Arun, Wat Po, Wat Phra Kaeo and the Grand Palace.
Bangkok Skytrain official website >>
(Site available in English and Thai language)

Taxi Meter
Easily spotted in yellow and green (and increasingly in pink) you won’t have trouble finding a Bangkok taxi. You may, however, have trouble in actually getting them to put the meter on. Instead they may quote you a non-meter price telling you that the ‘meter is broken’. Of course this price will be slightly higher than normal, so it’s up to you if you want to play along with the game and barter down his price. Alternatively, just smile and get the next taxi and ask for the meter. Once a taxi driver knows you are insisting on the meter the ‘broken’ meter has a habit of beginning to work.

Tuk-Tuk
There are a lot of scare stories about tourists being ripped off by Bangkok tuk-tuk drivers. There is undoubtedly an unscrupulous element, but most tuk-tuk drivers are decent and it’s an experience that should be tried at least once if you’re in Bangkok, so try not to be put off. During the day, always try and flag down a tuk-tuk that’s on the move rather than one that’s loitering around outside popular tourist places. That way there’s little chance of being hassled into one of the infamous jewellery/tailor shop trips. If you do find yourself being taken to a shop you don’t want to go to, don’t panic, just politely insist on going straight to your destination or get out and get another tuk-tuk or taxi.

Trains
State Railway of Thailand official website >>
Bangkok’s central train station is Hualamphong, located close to the Chinatown district and now handily served by the metro.

Buying tickets:
Station staff are well used to dealing with foreign tourists and it’s relatively easy to buy tickets and get information (including English language timetables). Always go to the official counters; there are still a few con artists who operate at the station and may approach you offering to sell tickets or take care of your bags. They are well dressed and will have impressive looking ID tags on their person. Ignore them (or smile and walk away) and go to the official counter.

Most tickets can be bought on the day, but for overnight trains it can be a good idea to book at least a day in advance particularly during tourist high season. If you are intending to travel during a public holiday you may have to book at least a week in advance.

Combination tickets:
It’s possible to buy a combined rail/boat ticket or a rail/bus ticket to get you all the way through to certain destinations including Krabi, Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, Ko Phi Phi and Ko Tao. In many cases, buying the combination tickets works out as cheap as purchasing each leg separately.

Left Luggage:
Open daily from 04.00 – 22.30. As with buying tickets, always go to the official counter.
(It’s worth noting that I’ve read and heard mixed reports about how secure your luggage is here; bags are left at owners’ own risk).

Sleeper Trains:
The overnight sleeper trains are often very slow, but they are quite comfortable whether you choose to opt for a fan compartment or an air-conditioned one.
Top tip: pay a few more Baht and get a lower berth seat; the bed is bigger and less claustrophobic than the upper berth.

Bangkok Weather

Check current weather in Bangkok >>

Month	Average Minimum Temp. °C	Average Maximum Temp. °C	Average Rainfall (mm)
Jan	20	32	11
Feb	22	33	28
Mar	24	34	31
Apr	25	35	72
May	25	34	190
June	24	33	152
July	24	32	158
Aug	24	32	187
Sept	24	32	320
Oct	24	31	231
Nov	22	31	57
Dec	20	31	9

When is the best time to visit Bangkok? The standard answer given by most guidebooks is November-February. Whilst it’s true that the temperature and the humidity can be more bearable during Thailand’s cool season, it’s also the tourist high season and there can be distinct advantages to visiting during the rest of the year (including lower price accommodation and less crowded sightseeing).

Although the table gives a breakdown of average temperatures and rainfall in Bangkok, visitors should be aware that at times the temperature can reach as high as 40-41°C during February-May and 37-38°C the rest of the year. It’s hot and humid year round in Bangkok, but the humidity levels are at their highest from April-June.

Even during the rainy season (May-October) visitors can expect to see plenty of sunshine so don’t be put off by visiting during this time. It’s true that when the rain comes down it can be torrential and there can sometimes be flash-floods, but the downpours are often short and sharp.

Plan Your Trip to Bangkok

Get hold of a decent map (my personal recommendation is the outstanding Nancy Chandler map of Bangkok) or guide book and plan in advance exactly where you want to go and what you want to see. Don’t underestimate the heat and the effects of a long flight if you are staying in Bangkok at the start of your holiday. Take it easy and don’t be too ambitious in what you can cram in during a short stay. A trip to the Floating Market at Damnoen Saduak for instance, will take up most of the day.

History of Bangkok, City of Angels

Bangkok (translation = ‘village of wild plums’) was the site of the old capital of Siam. Located in what is now modern day Thonburi, King Rama 1 moved his capital in 1782 to a location which would be easier to defend from attack. Moving across the Chao Phraya River to Krung Thep (translation = ‘city of angels’) he founded the new capital. Thai people normally refer to their capital as Krung Thep only calling it Bangkok when speaking in English.

Here’s a bit of useless trivia to bore your friends with: Krung Thep is an abbreviation of the full ceremonial name which (in its English romanisation) has the distinction of being in the Guinness Book of Records for having the longest place name in the world. And if you want to be a real smart-ass, learn how to say the full name:
Krungthepmahanakhornbowornrattanakosinmahintaraayutthayamahadilokpopnopparatratchataniburiromudomratchaniwetmahasathanamorn-
pimanavatarnsathitsakkathattiyavisnukaraprasit.

Now you know why Thai people just call it ‘Krung Thep’ or Bangkok (although there are plenty who will remember from their school-days the full ceremonial name).

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